Ta’ Gelmus, one of many hills of Gozo
One well-known nickname Gozo is known by, is Island of the Three Hills. I’m a little confused as to which three of its hills exactly carry the honour of being embedded in Gozo’s coat of arms. The page “Something about Gozo” on the website of the Ministry for Gozo says it “probably derived from the hilly view when observed from mainland Malta.” However, I remember faintly the explanation by a lecturer during an MTA course I once attended. According to him, the emblem rather features the three hills that become visible when the island is approached by sea in the vicinity of Ramla or Marsalforn, which were the landing points for pirates and other seafarers over the centuries.
Well, be that as it may, I can only tell you with certainty that there are far more than just three hills on Gozo. Ta’ Gelmus is one of them. With a height of ca. 95 m it isn’t exactly the highest point of the island, but it does offer an amazing panorama, and is within easy reach; coming from the Kempinski Hotel San Lawrenz, head for the main road to Victoria and take the path that you’ll find on your left a short distance after you pass the aqueduct. Better not do that by car though… while it doesn’t seem impossible (we went up by motorbike), the terrain is pretty rocky in places. I don’t want you go blaming me for letting you destroy your vehicle!
Once you’ve made your way up, the actual hilltop is a rather boring, plain plateau. The 350 degree views it gives you are fabulous though, and especially so with the countryside all dressed up in green, at this time of the year!
Another word of caution: being so close to the centre of Victoria, Ta’ Gelmus is being used for letting off fireworks on the occasions of various feasts and festivals. Such activity is usually marked by a large signpost saying “Vampa”. Here I need to admit that I’m not as much up to scratch with my knowledge as I would like to be… but I do seem to recall that Vampa is the name of the fireworks company and translates to something like a fiery flare. (Well, that sort of figures, doesn’t it?) In any case, don’t attempt to stroll up there if you see that sign – but I am certain, they wouldn’t really let you do that anyway…
) and a refreshing bottle of Kinnie (beer wouldn’t go amiss either). After a relaxing sit-down watching life go by you in some tiny bar or other, the last leg of the journey is a trip back home on one of the iconic grey and red buses.
