qbajjar

Memories of Gozo

Post by Giselle Farrugia, participant in the blog competition of the Kempinski Hotel San Lawrenz, and contender for the prize of a weekend break (photos added by us):

Gozo in my thoughts has always been a place of escape. When I was younger we used to come to Gozo during summer and it was a good thing to look forward to. We used to rent an apartment at Qbajjar near Marsalforn. Well actually we used to rent almost the whole block of flats as we spent this holiday of ours with another three to four families. The time we used to spend there was not always of the same duration, but it was always a minimum of 2 to 3 weeks and sometimes more.

Qolla Safra & area behind Qbajjar & Marsalforn

Everyday was a dream during our summers in Gozo. Apart from having a lot of cousins and other kids to play with, even our parents’ moods were much better as they used to allow us kids to do many more things than when we were back in Malta. Gozo reminds me also of our first flirts which are normally experienced at the early years of a teenage kid.

Nowadays it’s a little different because almost all of the kids that experienced Gozo with us at that time are married and/or with kids so such an adventure most of the times would not be possible. Having said that however, I still enjoy Gozo today. On the contrary to when I was younger, today I actually prefer Gozo much more in Winter. It is much quieter, and enjoying the breathtaking views it offers during winter days, helps in transforming a sense of total relaxation and well being. I call it the a natural healer as it makes you forget the day-to-day worries, simply like magic.

Winter view

On various occasions I had the thought to buy an apartment in Gozo but that would of course be during my last stage in life, and hopefully to spend a great time after my retirement. Since I’m 32 I’m afraid its still too far away for now, so for the time being I will continue enjoying Gozo in winter and renting a farmhouse in summertime. This way I will be sure to enjoy this magical island 360 degrees all year round.

I have tons more to say on Gozo but I’m afraid my write up would be too long so I need to stop. Well done for choosing such a good subject. Gozo is in my heart and having sea separating it from Malta, makes it more unique because I don’t think I would have enjoyed it this much if it was sticking to Malta. Gozitans are lucky… Gozo is simply magical.

From Qbajjar over Zebbug to Rabat

Post by Ann Fenech, participant in the blog competition of the Kempinski Hotel San Lawrenz, and contender for the prize of a weekend break (photos added by us):

Living abroad, I cannot make it there as often as I would like. However, I still make sure to skip over to Gozo whenever I am visiting the islands.

Spring in Gozo is particularly gorgeous… particularly the peace and quiet away from the summer crowds. The season is also perfect for walking. My favourite trek is from Qbajjar, where my aunt has an apartment at our disposal.


From then on to Zebbug by walking along the coast and up a (steep, steep!) hill – but there are so many good vantage points on the land beneath you that no one will mind stopping for ‘a few photos’ on the way ;)

View from Zebbug

And then on to Rabat, approaching the Citadel from behind. What wonderful views! From the blue sea and saltpans, to green landscapes with people working in their fields and on to the majestic limestone bastions of Citadel rising in front of you: a veritable kaleidoscope of colours that will truly soothe your senses.

By the end of the trek you definitely deserve some pastizzi (ricotta is my favourite :D ) and a refreshing bottle of Kinnie (beer wouldn’t go amiss either). After a relaxing sit-down watching life go by you in some tiny bar or other, the last leg of the journey is a trip back home on one of the iconic grey and red buses.

Gozitan bus (xarabank)

The question should not be what I like about Gozo, but why ever don’t I spend more time there!

Saltpans in Xwejni

Today we are going to steer you away again from Gozo’s fabulous green countryside, and back to one of the abundant aquatic scenarios of Malta’s sister island. I admit I’ve always been a little more in favour of waterscapes than, say, of mountainous terrain, and I’ll never cease to be amazed how diverse the views of the seaside are here in Gozo. Overlooked by Il-Qolla l-Bajda (white hill), the surroundings of Xwejni Bay are made up of a curious mixture of natural and man-made phenomenons, with a serene, yet almost surreal quality to them.

"A room with a view" near Il-Qolla l-Bajda

Large boulders in Xwejni Bay

Xwejni Bay is easily accessed from two different directions; you can pass along the coastal road (St Mary’s Street) through Marsalforn and Qbajjar, or choose to descend the road that snakes down from Zebbug and leads right to the bay. If you are lucky and visibility is very good, this road is also a great vantage point to catch a glimpse of Sicily, which is about 90 km away!

View over Xwejni Bay from the road descending from Zebbug

Right between the neighbouring bays of Xwejni and Qbajjar, stands the Qolla l-Bajda Battery, one of the numerous watchtowers dotting the coastline of the Maltese islands. It was built between 1715 and 1716, and in the early 1980s housed an extremely popular discotheque, The Rook. For me this will always be a special place: my wedding reception took place there, which was quite an extravagant venue in those days! ;)

Qolla l-Bajda Battery

Xwejni Bay and its saltpans are one of those places I’m often drawn back to when I get the photo itch, because it is just so different from other landscapes that involve sea views. Serving as the landmark of the inlet, Il-Qolla l-Bajda probably graces the holiday photos of thousands of people. Nevertheless, I never get tired of having yet another go at it…

Staple shot of Il-Qolla l-Bajda

Saltpans in Xwejni

Storage shed hewn into the rock

More storage sheds

The saltpans, by the way, are still in use to this day for the collection of sea salt. The easy part of the procedure is having them flooded by the sea in rough weather, and then sizzled dry by the sun. The residual salt crystals are then harvested in rather back-breaking manual labour, carried out in the heat of summer.

I would like to share with you this wonderful documentary, which I found while looking up information about the harvest of sea salt in Xwejni. It was produced by a team of university students and shows just how hard the work involved actually is. Please do keep this in mind when visiting the area, and respect the signs asking you not to step inside the saltpans!

Xwejni Bay is easily accessed from two different directions; you can pass along the coastal road (St Mary’s Street) through Marsalforn and Qbajjar, or choose to descend the road that snakes down from Zebbug and leads right to the bay. If you are lucky and visibility is very good, this road is also a great vantage point to catch a glimpse of Sicily, which is about 90 km away!