gozo

When Gozo threw out Napoleon

Hello dear friends!

Well, this week I’m finally making good on my promise to tell you a little about Gozo’s history. In fact, I think you’re going to be surprised!

“The year is 50 BC, and all of Gaul or Armorica is divided into three parts. No, four — for one small village of indomitable Gauls still holds out against the Roman invaders.” Thus begins the story, not of Gozo, but of Asterix. Throughout the fifty years of the popular cartoons’ existence the little village has given the Romans a real hard time.

In my younger days I was a big fan of Asterix and Obelix. Perhaps that’s why I’m always reminded of those brave Gauls’ stories when I think of Napoleon’s defeat by the Gozitans…


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These happenings date back 212 years. The mighty General Napoleon Bonaparte was planning on becoming mightier yet: conquering Egypt was on his agenda, as was the plan to vanquish India and the British Empire’s colonies in the Far East. The prospect of pocketing Malta on his way – ever so conveniently located and boasting of fortresses and natural harbours – probably tickled him pink.

At that point in time the Knights of Saint John had ruled the Maltese islands for 267 years. However, undermined by a few disloyal knights and Maltese, who had shrewdly crossed over to Napoleon’s side, it took just one lousy week for them to unceremoniously hand over Malta to the French troupes. Even Napoleon, who stayed in Malta only for 6 days, was taken aback by the ease of it! The island of Gozo submitted to the troupes of General Reynier, after he had promised to do them no harm.

The French rule brought with it revolutionary changes, such as the abolition of nobility and introduction of education for all classes. Even the trial by jury – until then unheard of in royal Europe – found its way into Malta’s judicial system!

Probably nothing much would have happened if they had not started to loot the churches to be able to pay their army. Huge mistake in a country as Catholic as Malta! In September 1798, only three months into the French reign, the Maltese and Gozitans rose against their oppressors.

On 2nd September four Gozitans took it upon themselves to create an emergency government: Archpriest Saverio Cassar, who was unanimously chosen leader, the doctor Salvatore Fenech, lawyer Giuseppe Grima and Martino Hasciach, a merchant.

Monument of Saverio Cassar at Pjazza t-Tokk (Independence Square) in Victoria

Under their leadership, the Gozitans beat their Maltese brethren to ridding their island from the French. They besieged the French garrison in the citadel, and with the help of the Portuguese and British navies finally drove the French to capitulation.

Fortifications of the Citadel in Victoria, Gozo

On 29th October 1798 the island of Gozo became an independent nation, and for the following 22 months, the Nation of Gozo was recognised and respected by the Courts of Naples and London! Gozo was independent to all intents and purposes, its government taking responsibility, for example, of raising finances for the local troops and importing food from neighbouring Sicily.

Another Gozitan, Liberato Grech from Xaghra, who as head of the Gozo armed forces had been instrumental in beating the French into retreat, built a chapel as a gesture of thanksgiving for the Gozitan victory. Erected in 1835, it was blessed by Canon Saviour Grech, Liberato’s son, in 1837. However, the two belfries were not added until 1958.

Chapel of Our Lady of Mt. Carmel at Ta' Hamet

Sadly, the end of this little story is less glorious. When two years later the British finally succeeded in ridding the main island Malta of the French for good, they brusquely relieved Saverio Cassar of his duties and forced Gozo back into the fold. Who knows what the island would be like today if that hadn’t happened?

Unfortunately many websites, including Wikipedia, insist on telling that Napoleon “granted” Gozo autonomy after he conquered Malta. However, the way I see it is that he didn’t have much of a choice, did he? Other sources don’t even mention Gozo in the context of the French occupation. Well, now you know the glorious truth of little Gozo standing up to France like David to Goliath! ;)


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Various internet sources have been of help with this article, but special thanks must go to Rev Dr Joseph Bezzina and his book “Gozo’s Government”, published in 2005 by the Local Councils Association (Gozo)

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Gozo – a wonderful diving spot!

Hello! We are delighted to have a guest blogger this weekend. Philip is from Geneva and visited Gozo last September. We didn’t need to ask him twice to share his diving experience, including some great photos, with our readers.

Philip was also one of the first participants in the photo competition of Renzo, Knight of Gozo, with this great picture:

Renzo Knight of Gozo, going for a dive

By the way, you are still in time to participate in the game if you like! You still have until 24th April 2010, to download the competition details and get shooting & tagging! :)

But now, without further ado, here is Philip’s blog post! (Thanks a lot Philip!)


Already before coming to the Kempinski Hotel San Lawrenz on Gozo, we had planned to do a diving course on this beautiful island.

With a diving school on the spot – informing us about everything and picking us up from the hotel – we started our course immediately. After a day in the pool and a first orientation dive near the beach we went on our first open water dive near the Blue Hole at Dwejra Bay just some minutes away from the hotel.

Getting ready for the dive

The Azure Window sitting enthroned above us and the blue sea in front of us was just amazing.

the Blue Hole at the Azure Window in Dwejra

the Blue Hole beneath the Azure Window in Dwejra

The water was crystal clear, and we saw many colorful fishes, sea stars, corals and jellyfish. After spending over an hour under water, we were really stunned about the diving spot – underwater cliffs, tunnels, caves – on Gozo you find everything!

The next day, however, was even better! Finishing off our license in the morning, we went on our first adventure dive with our instructor Roger. He took us to the so called Inland Sea – a lagoon with a tunnel connection to the open sea.

the Inland Sea in Dwejr

the Azure Window, as seen upon exit from the tunnel

After an incredible dive through the tunnel right under the Azure Window we finished our day with a nice cocktail at the pool bar! We will definitely come back!

at the Inland Sea in Dwejra


Guest Bloggers wanted…

Did you have a particular Gozo experience that you think is of interest to our readers and you would like to share with them? Then we’d love to hear from you! You could add a comment to this post and we’ll get in touch with you, or send an e-mail to blog[at]discover-gozo[dot]com.

Holy Week in Gozo

Renzo, Knight of GozoHello! I’m honestly sorry you had to wait this long for my first proper post on the blog of the Kempinski Hotel San Lawrenz. My only excuse is that Easter is considered the most important feast by the Catholic Church – and therefore in Gozo. There is so much to do, so much to see, that I simply did not find the time to write it all down for you. But late is still better than never, so here you are:

The somber festivities marking Holy Week start on the Friday preceding Good Friday, with a procession with the statue of id-Duluri – Our Lady of Sorrows – taking place in many villages of both, of Malta and Gozo.

Palm Sunday

Palm Sunday, a week before Easter, the congregation receives palm fronds or olive branches blessed with holy water by the priest celebrating mass. This ritual often takes place in a chapel in the vicinity of the parish church, and is followed by a procession from the chapel to the church.

Maundy Thursday

In the evening of Maundy Thursday, it is local custom to visit seven different churches to pay homage to the Altars of Repose. This tradition dates back hundreds of years and is said to originate in Rome where early pilgrims visited the seven pilgrim churches as penance.

There are also various places in Malta and Gozo with Last Supper exhibitions on public display. One very elaborate display can be found at the MUSEUM Centre in Nadur, where life-size figures (all created by Nadur artist James Azzopardi) of Jesus and the apostles are placed around an oblong table full of fruits mentioned in the bible. The picture below shows the scene in Banca Giuratale, on Independence Square in Victoria.

Last Supper Scene at Banca Giuratale in Victoria, Gozo

Good Friday

The processions on Good Friday draw a large audience of both, believers and tourists. Life-size scenes with statues are carried through the streets, depicting the stations of the cross.

Good Friday Procession in Victoria, Gozo

Good Friday Procession in Victoria, Gozo

Behind each statue/scene there is either a  brass band playing, a choir singing, or – more spectacularly, a group of hooded men carrying large wooden crosses or pulling heavy chains that are tied to their ankles, as an act of penance.

Good Friday Procession in Victoria, Gozo

Good Friday Procession in Victoria, Gozo

Good Friday Procession in Victoria, Gozo

Other parishes’ Good Friday processions carry different “flavours”. For instance, in Xaghra the procession takes the form of a pageant, with participants wearing colourful costumes of the period, re-enacting the story of Christ’s Crucifixion.

Easter Sunday

Easter Sunday, of course, is the feast which ends forty days of Lent and a week of somber mood. Church bells ring incessantly, and the morning sees another procession with a statue of the Risen Christ, accompanied by a brass band.

Easter Sunday procession in Victoria, Gozo

Easter Sunday procession in Victoria, Gozo

Easter Sunday procession in Victoria, Gozo

Easter Sunday procession in Victoria, Gozo

Easter Sunday procession in Victoria, Gozo

The Easter procession is followed by Mass, before the more mundane Easter celebrations begin.

St George's Basilica on Easter Sunday

Children receive the traditional Easter sweet, figolla, and other sweets. Easter lunch is of utmost importance, too, of course: even today, many people keep strictly to their fasting rituals during Lent, forfeiting sweets or disallowing themselves some other indulgence, as a form of penance, which ends on Easter Sunday!

L-Ghadira ta’ Sarraflu (limits of Kercem)

A very easy walk or bicycle/car ride is from Victoria to L-Ghadira ta’ Sarraflu (which translates to San Raphael’s lake or pond), which is situated behind Kercem. Getting there is easy; coming from the Kempinski Hotel San Lawrenz, head for Victoria, then  just follow the main road from the capital to Kercem, and behind the church continue going straight all the way. There are no steep hills involved, and hardly a chance of getting lost; at one point, the country lane splits in two, but both paths merge into one again after a while.

on the way to Ghadira

The route through the rugged area (which I believe is called Ta’ Klula) to Ghadira, as straight forward as it may be, is one of Gozo’s most beautiful ones. The road is wide enough for motor traffic, but stuck inside a car, you might miss out on some of the most spectacular scenery the island has to offer!

countryside en route to Ghadira

View from Ta' Klula to Xlendi Bay

Rugged terrain at Ta' Klula

Then, just as you think your feet could do with a break, you arrive at your destination. Ghadira is a freshwater pond that carries water practically all the year round. However, the best time for a visit is in spring (in my humble opinion that is anyway the best season for discovering the island!), when you’ll find a lush oasis of peace – if the frogs keep quiet, that is!

L-Ghadira ta' Sarraflu, limits of Kercem

Oleander in spring at L-Ghadira ta' Sarraflu

One of the noisy residents at L-Ghadira...

...and a more beautiful (and quieter!) visitor to the pond

We hope you enjoyed our outing of this week. Below is a map showing the way – and we’ll show you a different, slightly more challenging route from the hotel to Ghadira in one of our next posts!

Map Kercem to Ghadira (click to enlarge)

Carnival in Gozo

Last week was carnival week – a feast with huge importance in the Maltese cultural calendar!

The rather traditional carnival celebrations in Gozo mainly take place in the capital Victoria as well as Nadur. Colourful carnival floats made up papier-mâché in such huge proportions that you find yourself wondering how their ingenious makers get all the little details right!

Carnival float in Victoria, Gozo

Carnival float in Gozo

Carnival in Nadur 2010

But by nightfall Nadur transforms and becomes an enormous crowd-puller, with its by now famous “spontaneous carnival”.  A little advice: avoid visiting on the Saturday – there’s hardly space to breathe, leave alone move; Sunday and Monday will be just fine!

Revellers in their tens of thousands (!) from near and far roam through the streets, and there are no rules as to what to wear; you don’t even have to dress up at all. The village becomes a stage of the weird and wonderful, many participants transforming themselves with amazing imagination, often not giving away who is behind the masquerade.  Here are a few impressions of what there was to see at the carnival in Nadur in 2010:

Carnival 2010 in Nadur, Gozo

Carnival 2010 in Nadur, Gozo

Carnival 2010 in Nadur, Gozo

Carnival 2010 in Nadur, Gozo

Carnival 2010 in Nadur, Gozo

Carnival 2010 in Nadur, Gozo

I’ve also put together a small video that includes the above and many more:

Prinjolata, Malta’s carnival sweet

Prinjola = stone-pine tree
Prinjol-ata = of pine nuts

A few weeks before carnival, the local carnival sweet starts appearing in the shelves of sweets shops and supermarkets around the islands. It is a very sweet and rich kind of cake, which I’m always looking forward to; you just won’t find it at any other time of the year! It is instantly recognisable by its peculiar shape…

Prinjolata

Prinjolata

Are you interested in what actually goes into it – or even make one yourself? Then have a look at this prinjolata recipe!

Carnival in Gozo 2011

Maybe (what am I saying… hopefully!) this post has started you thinking about coming to Gozo to see the craziness of our carnival for yourself? The dates of next year’s carnival are from 4th until 8th March 2011 – so close to spring that it will make for a perfect extended weekend break away from northern Europe’s winter! And why not spoil yourself a little and complement the merrymaking in Nadur with a relaxing stay at the Kempinski Hotel San Lawrenz? A little tip: bookmark the special offers page! ;)

And the winner is…

Gozo – the magnificent winter hideaway

Last but not least, here is the post by Lianne Debono, participant in the blog competition of the Kempinski Hotel San Lawrenz, and contender for the prize of a weekend break. Stay tuned for the prize draw!

Gozo – the magnificent city

Visiting Gozo, even if for a short stay, is like a breath of fresh air.

For me the best time to visit Gozo is in winter when everywhere is very peaceful and quiet, so quiet that you can almost hear a pin drop while relaxing in some of the many countryside spots. Gozo is adorned with many must-see historical sites, and one of my favourite things to do in Gozo is going for a long walk and stopping by some of these places every now and then.

As for my favourite town in Gozo, it is the sleepy village of San Lawrenz and the surrounding countryside.

Azure Window

But all in all a visit to Gozo is always splendid, and a different experience awaits you every time you visit, no matter how rare or frequent a visitor you are.

Going to Gozo: vacation within a vacation

Post by Michael Carøe Andersen, participant in the blog competition of the Kempinski Hotel San Lawrenz, and contender for the prize of a weekend break:

Two years ago I met my girlfriend from Malta and thanks to her I have now visited these Mediterranean gems five times, a treat every time. Whenever my girlfriend comes across a map of Europe she always has to check if Malta is there – and sadly sometimes it’s not. Like a precious stone it can seem tiny almost hidden until you get closer and then you will notice its beauty in the detail.

Stepping off the plane in Malta I am usually met by a warm breeze and it always puts a big smile on my pale Northerner’s face. Spending time on the main island of Malta is great. There is the hustle and bustle of Valletta, with museums, sights, cafes and restaurants. Malta is where a lot of things happen and where my girlfriend’s friends and family is. We visit aunts and uncles – usually over delicious meals made with fresh produce, we meet friends and help out at home. Malta is densely populated and my girlfriend has a big family so it can be quite busy. And this is where Gozo come in. It’s the vacation in the vacation.

Usually we head up to Gozo for a day or two in the middle of the stay in Malta. It starts on the ferry across the straight that separates Gozo from Malta. The boat ride across takes about an hour and is a perfect interlude for putting the mind at ease and slow down a notch.

Last time I crossed it was when we went to Gozo to celebrate New Year’s Eve. It was an almost clear evening with just a dash of clouds on the horizon – enough to give the sunset a beautiful golden glare. There was a fresh breeze but the sea was calm so it was great standing on the deck as the boat made its way.

Approaching Gozo you are met by the silhouette of Mgarr, the ferry town of Gozo that is winding its way up the rock from the port to the towering belfry of Ghajnsielem’s Parish Church.

As soon as you start moving into Gozo you can feel the difference from Malta. There are fewer people, it is greener and quieter. That is how it feels to me. More relaxed, more rural and more friendly. It is like the water between Gozo and Malta has kept parts of the frenzy of modern European life at an arm’s length and things here are more like they have been in a long time.

I enjoy the fact that Gozo is small enough that you can walk most places. Although small, once you go to the countryside you will feel that you are alone on the island while taking in the facets of this gem; the saltpans, the golden beaches and the lush green valleys.

Getting back from Gozo I always feel refreshed and relaxed. Ready to enjoy another round of friends, family and good food.

Michael Carøe Andersen on the way to Gozo

Looking forward to retiring in Gozo, too!

Post by Dee’s husband Michael Owen, participant in the blog competition of the Kempinski Hotel San Lawrenz, and contender for the prize of a weekend break (photos added by us):

Visiting Gozo and the big island was one of the best holidays ever. Even though it took three days to get there from Panama, Central America, and considerable cash, it was well worth the trip. Having rented a car, we were able to explore the whole island and take in the breathtaking views and buildings.

Marsalforn

We rented a third floor flat in Marsalforn and it served as a good base to explore. The bay and coastline were incredible. A little windy but this only made for spectacular wave action crashing against the rocks and depositing salt in the pans.

rough seas in Marsalforn

We watched a local band performing down at the seafront and they were as good as any we had heard in the past. (Maybe with the exception of Pink Floyd.)

The people of Gozo are so friendly and helpful giving good advice and directions when we got just a little lost (kind of hard to do). We met Gozo Mark and attended a huge boot sale. The rest of the time just visiting churches, landmarks and just about every tourist attraction.

We hope to return soon and experience a different time of year to give us an idea of what to expect when we finally re-locate to Malta.

Looking forward to retiring… in Gozo

Post by Dee Owen, participant in the blog competition of the Kempinski Hotel San Lawrenz, and contender for the prize of a weekend break (photo added by us):

I have only had the privilege of visiting Gozo once, that was in September of 2008. The trip to Malta and Gozo was my first and I fell in love with both islands. Although, Gozo was my favorite. The journey to Malta, from my current home, took three days. Every day and hour of that stressful trip, it’s really no fun to travel now, was worth it.

Marsalforn, Gozo

Marsalforn was the place that my husband and I stayed. We had a rental car and explored the whole Island. Probably went places that the average tourist wouldn’t, off-road both by vehicle and foot.

We went to Gozo to see if it was a place we could live, enjoy retirement but still be active. Yes, it met all of those criteria. Each village or area has its own charm and uniqueness. The beauty and diversity of the sea, the hills, rocks makes you want to never leave. We will be back…very soon.